Calking welt



7570623 fir? 1 Y J M atiw gy L. F. PLUMMER GALKING WELT Original Filed Sept. 12, 1931 June 11, 1935.

' 'I'he present: invention relates to weltingwhich proved calking weltwhich is the product of the welt, to the upper and insole-eta welt shoe by Mypreferred improved method of makingcalk s r J befjermed only from good leather thus precluding grain slicer severed from the grain surfaceoifim Patented June 11,1935 it Y 2,004,447

2,004,447 eALKING WELT V I Lloyd FQPluinmer; Brocktoh, Mass. v I Application september lz;1931', Serial No. 562,441 RenewedlNovember'Z, 1934 1 1 S ClaimsL (o1, gs-4s isused in the manufacture ofweltshoes, and'more final step in, the preferred method, and l particularly, but not exclusively, to the art of V Fig.1? is a detail view in perspective of a modi-I :making acalking welt which is secured, with the iication. 5 the inseam stitches, andgwhich is used .tocalk ,ing. Welts starts with a leather, strip blank 8 theshoe crease formed between theruppenmd '(Fig. 2) which issubstantially +thof an inch the Welt to exclude dirt and. moisture and to imnarrowerlthan'a standard strip of Goodyear Welt partto the shoe aheavy and storm-proofappear "Shoe calk Welting. The, strip formed, as '10 .arice. I i i x y usuaL into acontinuous strip by scarring together 10 "It has been proposed heretofore to. usea. calka u rfi S p p Thestlip 8 p ing welt cf the type referred to inwhich the face] vlded With'fi grain faces, aflesh face I!) andtwoj thereof. which isvexposedto viewinthe finished fleshedge faces I! and I 2. shoe is. a grain face presenting inherently. an The first step inthe'preferredimproved method r 1 attractive appearance; But thise'xposed grain g Calking weltscon'sists i111. -1em0Vi!1g l5 faceconstitutes an integral part of the calking bodily from the grain'face 9 of the strip blank 8 .Wel'b'andtherefore this type oif calking Weltcan a thin layer it (Fig.3); Thislayer I3 is arrallits use inmany grades of welt sho es. M Stated-inanother way, the remaining strip blank .,The principal object of the present invention i i igi i) hasagrainfacel'i. 20

is to produce acalking welt whichmay be manud: p iITthe' p d mpr d .factured economicallyand yet, when inserted into method 0f,makingca1king'welts consists in re.- thecrease formed between the upper and the m ving a trip it (Fig.4), narrower than the weltof aweltshoeand secured, with the Welt, to layerit, bodily from the griainisidejof the strip 5 the, upper and insole by the inseam stitches,;will blank. at one m rginh re fg This fi p ,25 present to viewagrain face. 1 ,2 is provided with: a grain face Ill, a flesh facejlB, H To the accomplishment of this object and of anTintact flesh edge face l9 and a beveled flesh others high will appear .hgi-eiflaftenthe .varigus edge face 29. The strip 13 18 I101} waste but COHI- features of the present invention reside in cerp se Substantially & fi d W n forstitchi tain constructions, arrangernents of parts, step downshoes. 7 i i j i I 30 products, and methods of manufacture hereine After h p W h b n v d, .ther t after described and thenset forth broadly and in ma n n ripbmnk ha a t n edgeface 2|, an detail in the appended claims. which possess adrntact edge-face 22, a fieshface 423, a flesh face" vantages readily apparent t tho egskilled 24 terminatingin a cha-Infered'shoulder 25, and it thearta j v j, a grain'faceZE extendingbetweenthe shoulder 35 The various featuresfof the present invention 25am]. the intact edge face22. v will be understood readily bythose skilled in the The t d st p vin the p e d impr v d i art from an, inspection \of the-accompanying rnethod of. making calking Welts. consists in" drawingillustrating the bestforms of the calking A wrapping thewlayer 53 (Fig. 3) about the. intact 40 welt at present devised, and the preferred methods edge face 22 of the remaining strip blank (Fig. 5), 40. of making them, in which, l one ;free'ed ge of the layer it overlapping upon I Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of a welt shoe e fl h face 23 d e, other free de v e showing the improved calking elt located in the the grain face'ifiand the shoulder 25 and overcrease formed between thewelt and the upper; lapping upon the flesh face 2%. The layer it, or Fig.2 is a detail view in'perspective of a leather eover strip, is secured in place onthe underlying 45 strip blank; stripblank by some cement, preferablyone hav- Fig. 3 is a detail view in perspective of the prod-1 g an p p basei 1 nets of the first step in the preferred method of The fourth and final step in the preferred immaking calking welts; i proved method, consists in passing the step f Fig. 4 isa detail view in perspective of the pro-d-- product, illustrated in Fig. *5, through a set of 50 nets of the second step in the preferred method; rolls (notshown) which imparts a curvature to i Fig. 5is adetail view in perspective of the prodthe wrapped edged the strip blank and sinks uct produced by Wrapping the thin cover layer the free ends of thejlayer I 3 into the flesh faces about the intact edge face of the strip blank; 23 and 24, respectively) Fig. 6 is a detail view in perspective ofthe im- As well known to those skilled in this art; it 51;

' the crease between the'welt is often necessary or desirable to skive or split the tanned hide and thus reduce the thickness of the grain on the grain side thereof before cutting it into the pieces which, when scarfed together, form a continuous strip of Goodyear Welt Shoe welting. These skivings or splittings, removed from the grain side of the hide, may be cut into strips to form the layer l3 and these strips may be wrapped about the intact edge face 22 of the strip blank after the strip I6 has been removed therefrom. When the skiving or split strips are used for the cover strip l3 the strip blank 8 may be of very cheap leather, in fact so cheap that it would be impracticable to produce therefrom the grain layer l3 (Fig. 3). The skivings or splittings may be out as wide as the layer l3 or into widths 21 sufficient to cover the intact edge face 22 and the flesh faces 23 and 24 (Fig. '7) flush with the edge face 2 I.

As the layer i3 is grain and the intact edge face 22 is flesh there is a color contrast between them. I propose to take advantage: of this color contrast by providing the cover strips 13 and 21 with ornamental cut-outs, such as those shown at 28 (Figs. 3, 5, 6 and 7) When the perforated cover strips l3 and 2'! are wrapped about the in tact edge face 22 portions of its flesh surface are exposed to view through the perforations.

The calking welt, either plain or ornamented, as shown in Figs. 6 and '7, is assembled with a Goodyear Welt 29 (Fig. l) in the welt sewing operation so that their inner ends are secured to the upper 38 and the insole 3! of a welt shoe by the inseam stitches 32. With this construction 28 and the upper as is. filled by a bead 33 comprising the inner strip blank and the outer covering layer l3 or 21. Thus the only face of the calking welt which is exposed to view in the finished shoe is a grain face which is inherently attractive in appearance, which is capable of receiving a high finish, and which may be ornamented in a pleasing manner independently of the perforations, which, of course, may be omitted if desired.

By starting with a strip blank 8 narrower by eth' of an inch than a standard strip of Good year Welt Shoe calk welting and then building the strip back to the width of a standard strip of Goodyear Welt Shoe call: welting by applying the thin layer It or 2'! to the intact edge face 22 a great saving in the cost of leather is possible.

Instead of forming the'perforations 281 after the slice [3 has been removed from the strip blank 8 the perforations may be formed by an embossing tool which is driven into the grain face 9 of the strip blank 8 so as to cut the grain face 9 to a depth below the line of severance of the slice i3. Then when the slice is removed it will be provided with the perforations 28.

It will be clear to those skilled in this art, and with the general objects of the present invention in view, that changes may be made in the steps of the methods and in the details of structure, the described and illustrated embodiments thereof being intended as exploitations of the underlying essentials of the invention, the features whereof are scope in the claims herewith.

What is claimed as new, is:

1. That improvement in the art of making calk welts which consists in producing a thin grainsurfaced leather layer, rabbetting a relatively narrow strip from one face of a leather blank strip at one margin leaving the edge face at the opposite margin intact and wrapping the layer about the intact edge face.

2. That improvement in the art of making calk welts which consists in producing a thin all grain leather layer, removing a relatively narrow strip from the grain face of a leather blank strip leaving one edge face thereof intact and wrapping the layer about the intact edge face.

3. That improvement in the art of making calk welts which consists in removing from the grain side of a leather strip blank both a thin layer and a strip of greater thickness but less width, and wrapping the thin layer about the edge face of the strip blank adjacent the remaining grain face thereof.

4. That improvement in the art of making calk welts which consists in removing from the grain side of a leather strip blank a thin all grain layer, removing from the grain side of the remainin strip blank a strip of greater thickness but less width than the layer and wrapping the thin layer over the remaining grain face of the strip blank and about the edge face thereof adjacent the grain face.

5. That improvement in the art of making calk welts which consists in removing from the grain side ofa leather strip blank both a thin layer and a strip of greater thickness but less width leaving one edge face of the blank thicker than the other, and wrapping the thicker edge face of the strip blank and molding the wrapped portion of the strip blank to impart a curvature thereto and sink the free ends of the layer into the opposite faces of the strip blank, respectively.

6. Calk welting and the like for shoes which comprises a strip blank of grain leather having a rabbet on the grain side at one margin and an intact flesh edge face at the opposite margin and a separate cover strip wrapped about the intact edge face.

'7. Calk welting and the like for shoes which comprises a strip blank of grain leather havingxa rabbet on the grain side at one margin and an intact edge face at the opposite margin and a separate cover strip wrapped about the intact edge face, the wrapped ledge face being molded to impart a curvature thereto.

8. Calk welting and the like for shoes which comprises a strip blank of grain leather having .a rabbet on the grain side at one margin and an intact flesh edge face at the opposite margin and a separate cover strip wrapped about the intact edge face, the wrapped edge face being molded to impart a curvature thereto and sink the free ends of thecover strip into the opposite faces of the strip blank, respectively.

LLOYD F. PLUMMER.

definitely stated in their true the thin layer about i 

